GREG WROTE:
Claire and I walked north on Lincoln Avenue (from Ashland) for the first time last October. We window shopped, tasted wines, held hands, break danced (sans cardboard or music), dodged traffic and read menus on restaurant fronts. When we got to Wilson, Claire spotted a Mexican place on the corner with a menu that she just loved. It was called Brioso and it had a goat cheese enchilada dish listed that Claire salivated over.
We were pretty broke at the time, so I promised to take her there for some sort of celebration. Like when she got her job, or I got a raise, or one of us got something big published, or one of my Cleveland professional sports teams didn’t embarrass me on national television.
Claire landed her job soon after that walk. We sat down in a front table of Brioso and ordered a couple margaritas. She got her goat cheese enchiladas, I got something I can’t remember, and we left being completely underwhelmed by the place, the food, the drinks, the whole thing. We laughed on our walk home that night because we had built it up so much in our heads.
Now we live practically in Lincoln Square, and now Brioso is another Mexican joint called Jack Rabbit. “Good,” we both said when we saw the awning. “Fucking Brioso.”
We popped in Jack Rabbit in late April looking for a drink, but when we got inside we realized that the inside hadn’t changed a bit. The bar that we sat down at was still the tiny tiled thing that sat only four, and the menu looked to be EXACTLY the same: same layout, font, dishes, they even had a “Brioso” margarita. Annoyed, we went across the street to Fiddlehead Cafe (which we love).
But after reading a Time Out Chicago review on Jack Rabbit, and after seeing that they have outdoor seating, and after Claire and I couldn’t decide where to eat this week, we gave the place a shot.
After declining an outdoor table because the only one open was mere inches away on both sides from other tables, Claire and I ended up sitting at the exact same table we did when it was called Brioso. We ordered a couple of Brioso margaritas and the Three Handcrafted Salsas to start.
There was a couple sitting at the next table over with their dinners in front of them, and when the animated young woman finally took a break from talking her dude’s ear off, we asked what they had there: She was about to start on the Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast (with spicy mac n’ cheese) and I never found out what he ordered because the woman started gabbing away about how they love it here, how they’ve been to Jack Rabbit four times now, how they never tried it when it was Brioso.
“Well,” I said to Claire. “Maybe they fixed this shit up.”
But then our appetizer and drinks showed up. The margaritas ($7.50) were okay, but too similar. The chips were tasty, but the three salsas were flat and annoying to dip into; they were served in ramekins whose openings were too small for the chips. Getting to the bean salsa was a chore and soon I found myself dumping them out onto the chips.

When our server came back to get our dinner order, I had to ask him about the menu and its shocking similarity to Brioso’s. He explained that it was the same owners who wanted to “revamp” the place. That’s understandable. After a little more prodding, he told us that they kept the same menu and the same chefs, too. So all they did was change the name?
That’s kind of like filling out a test, handing it to the teacher, and once she’s done marking it up you ask for a blank copy so that you can immediately take it again. You don’t ask to go home so that you can study for a week to relearn the material, you just take the same test back to your desk and fill it out with the exact same answers. The only difference is you write down a different name at the top, trying to fool her.
And it showed. Claire’s free-range chicken fajitas ($11.95) were mediocre, but its accompanying dish of cheese, lettuce and salsa looked as unfrozen and drab as something out of Chi-Chi’s. I ordered the special, the Chile Relleno.

It was also… fine. And for some reason it came with three tortillas. I cleaned my plate.

Jack Rabbit, by all accounts, is still Brioso. We weren’t fooled, Mr. Owner Of Both Places Which Is The Really Same Place Let’s Be Honest Here. So if you are like us and didn’t enjoy Brioso, don’t waste your time at Jack Rabbit.
CLAIRE WROTE:
On Tuesday night Greg and I went to Jack Rabbit in Lincoln Square. I really want to like this restaurant. I’ve wanted to like it ever since I first walked by its first incarnation, close to eight months ago, when it was called Brioso and billed itself as “Modern Mexican.”
The restaurant I’m referring to, now called Jack Rabbit and billed as a “Southwest Grill,” is located on a bustling little corner in Lincoln Square. Greg and I first happened upon this place last fall on a stroll through the Square, back when neither of us even lived in the neighborhood. I remember spotting its storefront from across the street and pulling Greg over by the arm to check it out with me. Brioso, Modern Mexican. I scanned the menu noting the goat cheese enchiladas and the green chile cheeseburger. YUM, right? Greg shrugged.
I love Mexican food. That and Indian food are my two favorite cuisines. And I’m always interested to see a modern version of them (Marigold is a great example of this). So last fall, after finally finding a job 3 torturous months after moving to Chicago, when Greg asked me where I wanted to celebrate, I said Brioso! We were both excited, dreaming of sparkly, tart margaritas and creamy goat cheese enchiladas, green chiles and homemade salsas. Even Greg, who bills himself as someone who doesn’t get excited about food, was excited.
So, last fall, for my celebratory dinner Greg and I found ourselves at a corner window table at Brioso. And I can’t help but just say it now: What a let down. I haven’t been this disappointed in a restaurant in a long time. The evening began well but quickly gained downhill momentum with the arrival of each dish. The margaritas, although flavorful, had no discernible alcohol in them. The chips were tasty but the heavier sort that require the balance of a bright salsa — unfortunately, the salsas before us were bland and boring. An ahi tuna appetizer could have been fresher and also failed to balance the heavy chips it was served with. And my beloved goat cheese enchiladas that I had dreamed about ever since hearing the words, “We’d like to offer you the position,” were dry and tasteless things swimming in an equally bland red sauce that pooled into a flavorless muck against the rice.
I remember putting down my fork with a sigh. Isn’t it just the worst to be that disappointed by a meal?
I’m one of the nicest critics you’ll come across. Having been raised by a chef mother who ran her own restaurant when I was a kid, I always give the restaurant the benefit of the doubt. I’ve got a decade’s worth of time spent working behind the scenes of the restaurant business and I know first hand how hard it can be to plate a good serving of food. But the flipside is that I also know an uninspired dish when I taste one. And the dinner we shared at Brioso last fall was exactly that: uninspired.
So, earlier this spring, when on a stroll through our new neighborhood of Lincoln Square, we both noticed a new sign over the spot where Brioso had been, we were intrigued. Jack Rabbit, huh? Southwest Grill? We crossed the street to check out the menu. I scanned its contents and noted the goat cheese enchiladas and the green chile cheeseburger. What?! Startlingly similar menu, vaguely different sign. We peered into the restaurant itself. It looked the same. I looked at the menu again. The “Brioso” margarita was even still there on the left-hand side of the menu. Weird. Troubling. Slightly intriguing. Kind of enraging.
I felt even more incensed when I read the review in Time Out Chicago that week, which deemed Jack Rabbit a welcome replacement to its so-so predecessor Brioso. Hmmm…could it be true? For months I didn’t really care that much and Greg and I stayed on our side of the street. But last night after a long discussion about where to get married (destination wedding in Mexico?!) and where to eat dinner, we decided to finally check out Jack Rabbit. I was in a bad mood and looking forward to having something to bitch about. Not the most objective attitude for trying out a new restaurant but what’s a girl to do?
I’ll cut right to it. It wasn’t bad. Greg and I sat in the same spot and we both ordered the Brioso margarita which had adopted a much pulpier mix but tasted less tart and more sweet than I generally like. We started with chips and three “hand-crafted” salsas — all of them still quite bland and still accompanied by their heavier tortilla counterpart. As we munch, I poured over the menu.
Man, it’s a good menu. I still really wanted to like this place. Standout items that made my mouth water included an appetizer of a roasted beet salad with goat cheese, fajitas with marinated free-range chicken breast, again with the green chile cheeseburger, a Monterey jack and parmesan encrusted ribeye served with buttermilk mashed potatoes and zucchini, and lastly, a pan roasted chicken breast with green beans and spicy mac and cheese. YUM, right?
I ordered the free-range chicken fajitas and Greg ordered off the specials menu — a chile relleno with wild mushrooms. While we waited I noticed the woman next to me had what appeared to be the chicken breast with mac & cheese. When I queried her about it she reported that it was delicious and that she and her dining partner had been to Jack Rabbit several times, much to their enjoyment. We then asked the waiter about the changes done to the restaurant, and in a bored and unfriendly way, he repeated more than once that he wasn’t there when it was Brioso and all he could tell us was that the owners had revamped the menu.
Greg and I both ate our entrees as we sucked down a second round of margaritas. My chicken fajitas were tender and flavorful but were accompanied by a tiny little plate featuring some wilting lettuce, my favorite bland salsa and a little cup of dryly shredded cheese. I requested some guacamole which ended up being the best part of it all, and I tried a bite of Greg’s rellenos which tasted okay but not amazing. We both cleaned our plates despite not loving our dishes.
The bottom line is that I don’t think I’d go back. For a two-person dinner that averages around $75, I’d much rather go somewhere else. I’m a person who believes that anyone can change…but in the case of Brioso/Jack Rabbit, not so much.
Jack Rabbit
4603 N Lincoln Ave, Chicago
773.989.9000