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Archive for the ‘Food & Drink’ Category

Swimming in a Sea of Side Dishes at Green Zebra

Friday, November 14th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

Claire and I grazed the many small dishes at Green Zebra like one-stomached, sweater-and-deodorant-wearing cattle. We went from roasted beet salad to Thai spiced carrot soup to a foraged mushroom popover to ricotta gnocchi to buttermilk polenta. There was also the squash tortellini and the potato tots and the…

We sat in a booth, telling each other that we gotta try this and that in front of us, as if we wouldn’t. There was such a variety of dishes, and on each dish there were so many interesting ingredients. For example: The potato tots came with a sunny-side up egg, nicoise olives and heirloom tomatoes.

It got me thinking about how I’m so lazy and uncreative in the kitchen at home, that I bet if I was ever forced to open up a restaurant I’d only be able to offer up one food item like a hotdog stand or a pizza parlor. One main dish, minimal ingredients. And I’d give my place a name like the following:

Ham Hock Stop

Just Strained Noodles?

Celery! Celery! Celery!

Onion Tower

Nothin’ But Beans

Lazy Greg’s Naked Toast

Cheddar Block

Boose’s Pulled Pork, Sans Bun

Green Zebra
1460 W Chicago Ave
312.243.7100

CLAIRE WROTE:

The thing about being a vegetarian (which I admittedly am only about 80% of the time) is that you end up eating a lot of side dishes. Mashed potatoes, rice, pasta, greens, salad, hunks of crusty bread, extra cheese and crackers, all because you’re in search of something filling.

Creating a complete vegetarian meal, something that feels as fulfilling as your mom’s Sunday chicken dinner, is a hard thing to do. I don’t necessarily believe that each meal needs to represent the classic protein-carbohydrate-vegetable portion plan, but when your menu is so often relegated to a sampling of side dishes, the three-portion plan starts to seem like a rare treat.

And that’s why–and I hate to say this–I was disappointed with my dining experience at Shawn McClain’s upscale vegetarian restaurant, Green Zebra. It’s not that the food wasn’t wonderful. It definitely was. Bright flavors, local and seasonal offerings, diverse ingredients. It’s just that the whole menu is arranged a series of small dishes and it made me feel like I do when I end up at a dinner party where steak is the main course: resigned to an evening of side dishes.

The way the menu works: The dishes at Green Zebra increase in size and guests are advised to kind of design their own five-course menu from offerings like fresh burrata cheese with piparras peppers and oregano, ricotta gnocchi with honey-roasted figs, potato tots with a sunny-side up egg and heirloom tomatoes. Our party of four shared these, along with some of the slightly larger small plates like the squash tortellini with purple cabbage and a mushroom popover with blue cheese and browned butter.

But as good each dish truly was, I left with a fully belly, still wanting for a meal.

Pull Up a Seat at Forkably Hip’s Next Available Table

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

Growing up in a family of six kids, my mother always had to calculate recipes from books to make sure there would be enough to go around for eight mouths. I never thought about this math as a child, but looking back on those days now allows me to give her even more credit for what she did in the kitchen.

On Sunday evening Claire and I attended a Forkably Hip dinner party, thrown by Andrea Newberry and a few of her friends. Here’s a picture of Andrea and her fiance Ira working hard to feed the 25 or so hungry mouths out in the living room:

There were eight filled seats at my table, just like when I was a kid, but this time I didn’t have my signature green plastic cup or any of my brothers’ elbows jabbing into my ribs. This time I was surrounded by seven hip women who drank wine and talked politics, who discussed their interesting Chicago jobs and exchanged business cards: two of the women created websites, one ran an aerial dance company, one restored Japanese books for the Art Institute, another ran a fashion blog, and the woman next to Claire was a Time Out Chicago editor.

Andrea’s food, which can best be seen and described on her latest blog post, was both delicious and fun.

As the conversation and wine flowed, so did the courses to our table. So did the piles of dirty dishes away from us.

If I didn’t have Claire and her social networking skills, and if I wanted to meet a bunch of interesting and social people in a comfortable atmosphere, then I would reserve a seat at Forkably Hip’s next event. Even with Claire, I’ll still want to reserve a seat.

Forkably Hip
BYOB
Suggested Donation: $25.00
forkable.blog@gmail.com

CLAIRE WROTE:
I grew up going to dinner parties. As the only child of two much older parents who loved to entertain, I think half of my childhood was spent flouncing around the living room while my parents’ guests sipped cocktails and mingled in their Saturday night finest.

Growing up in that environment did two things for me: not only do I now love to host my own little soirees, but I’m very appreciative of the details that go into someone else doing the same. Throwing a dinner party isn’t just about the food. Even though the evening may revolve around that very thing, there are so many other factors that come into play when designing a successful get-together in your home. From the people you invite, to the lighting, the music and even the arrangement of furniture, each angle must be accounted for, otherwise your party may end up feeling a little off, like a table with one leg too short. On the other hand, there’s nothing quite like attending a truly successful dinner party. The feeling you have, upon walking out the door, still slipping your coat on, a warm glow rising up through you, a smile lingering on your face…there’s nothing quite like that.

We went one such dinner party just the other night. Andrea Newberry of the blog Forkably Hip, hosted a fantastic evening in her home in Humbolt Park with her fiance Ira on Sunday. Andrea’s blog is billed as “Slow Food for Fast Living” and uses these events to demonstrate exactly what she means by that. Sunday night’s event was deemed “Forkably Hip” and was co-hosted by fashion blog writer Amber Mortenson of Painfully Hip, thus ensuring that not only would the food be good but the guests would be fabulous (and well-dressed). The menu was French Provincial (a caramelized onion tart to begin, Coq au Vin as the main dish and a luscious dessert of plum dumplings) and Andrea had cleared out the living room, giving way to space for three long tables at which we all sat.

There was only one person that Greg somewhat knew at the party and I knew no one; the rest of the guests were a really interesting mix of magazine editors, aerial theatre performers and historical book restorers. Conversation, as well as wine flowed through the night and Andrea disappeared and reappeared throughout night, presenting us with a delectable meal. As Greg and I pulled on our coats at the end of the night and walked down the steps outside of her apartment, a smile graced both our faces — a sure sign that Andrea Newberry knows what she’s doing.

It was Easy to Find the Audacity to Attend “The Audacity of Beer”

Monday, September 22nd, 2008
GREG WROTE:

This was my first presidential fundraiser so I didn’t know really what to expect beyond there being a bunch of Obama pins and Obama talk. Maybe there’d be a bunch of signs and Obama tees. Maybe some blind strippers and Obama flamethrowers. Maybe some voter registration sheets. And maybe some bumper stickers. The norm, I assumed.

My initial thought when walking up to The Galway Arms, the location of “The Audacity of Beer”: Why is this fundraiser for an African American from the South Side of Chicago taking place in an Irish Pub in Lincoln Park? Shouldn’t we be all whooping it up in an All-American joint, or at a Kenyan-Kansan fusion grill in a more Obama-like section of the city?

Claire and I happily gave our donation at the door and then climbed the narrow wooden stairs to the second-floor bar. It was packed and hot. Five-to-one ratio of gals to guys. Loud. Obama posters and stickers and shirts and finger puppets…

We grabbed our friends and descended immediately back to the ground floor to find a table for dinner. An hour later we zipped back up the stairs to find it thinned out and manageable. Claire and I grabbed some Obama swag and meandered through the back room.

On our left was a Rock ‘Em Sock ‘Em Robots game with McCain’s and Obama’s faces taped to their heads. On our right, a fierce game of Hungry Hungry Hippo (with some GOP names taped to their hippo heads) was being played. Other games like Connect Four were also out and had shit taped to them, and each of these games asked for a dollar donation to play.

But it was the life-size cutout of George Bush that caught our eyes. You could write a message on a small slip of paper and pin it anywhere to his body. Mine said something about Bush being a hypocrite and I stuck it to his forehead. The next cutout was a smiling Dick Cheney dressed in a pajama onesie with his naked ass sticking out. You could pin a devil tail on him for a buck. That was fair because I’ve had one pinned to his ass for eight years in my head for nothing more than a smile.

We ducked out around 11, but stopped first to ask the guy at the door how many people came by to donate. He pulled a huge roll out of his pocket and I warned him that it all better make it to the campaign. We felt encouraged by the evening; I’ll go to Galway Arms or the South Side or the moon to get Barack Obama elected president.

CLAIRE WROTE:

The last political fundraiser I went to was for Howard Dean back in 2004. The fundraiser was in the shape of a fancy party held at director David O. Russell’s (Three Kings, I Heart Huckabees) house in Beverly Hills. I was there under the pretense of working with the caterer, but really I was there to see Howard Dean.

This was before he’d lost his credibility as a candidate and he was still, in my opinion, the most interesting candidate to choose from. When he spoke at the party that night, Dean was funny and frank, his short stature giving him a kind of solid presence I hadn’t expected. David O. Russell was impulsive and strange, sitting and standing at wildly inappropriate moments throughout Dean’s speech on his manicured back patio. I stood quietly on the fringe of the small crowd in my caterer’s black pants and white button down shirt.

Last week, attending a Barack Obama fundraiser deemed “The Audacity of Beer” at The Galway Arms in Lincoln Park, was quite a different experience. Rather than spending an evening with the Hollywood elite, Greg and I joined a few friends for a laid back night of Irish ale and Obama enthusiasm. It’s certainly not hard to find Barack supporters in Chicago these days, but nonetheless it was nice to be around a large and enthusiastic group of them.

We all got something to eat downstairs before heading up to the second floor to peruse the games and tables that had been set up. There were bumper stickers and pins to be acquired, voter registration information to be gleaned, life-size George W. Bush cutouts to pin things on, George W. Bush voodoo dolls to stick pins into (all the pins, save one in his heart, were stuck in his crotch), a Dick Cheney-as-the-devil poster to pin a tail on, and lots of little games like Connect Four featuring Barack’s and McCain’s faces.

Although it wasn’t the most amazing event I’ve ever been to, it was nice to be around like-minded people. It was kind of fun to take some jabs at the soon-to-be-former administration. It was satisfying to donate money to Barack Obama’s campaign and it was great to enjoy an evening out with friends while supporting a political figure I whole-heartedly believe in.

While there’s still more I could be doing, and more I plan on doing, to support Barack Obama’s campaign, I was glad to do at least this small thing: drink beer in the name of the man I hope will run soon run this country.

A Little Respect and Reverence for the Chef’s Ingredients Goes a Long Way at Powerhouse

Tuesday, September 9th, 2008
GREG WROTE:   

I’ve been to a place called Powerhouse before: There’s one on the west bank of The Flats in Cleveland. And just like the Powerhouse in Chicago where we had dinner on Friday night, it was once a power-generating facility that now houses restaurants and retail.

For me, the name Powerhouse always conjures up the memories of New Year’s Eve 2003 when a group of us went to Cleveland’s Powerhouse to celebrate, well, the new year. My date drank way too much way too fast, and at 12:05 she had her head resting against the wall with her eyes rolling all different directions. Without much choice and with much grumbling, I hefted her to the curb and hailed a cab. She puked inside the cab, outside of the cab, and on my best suit. So you can imagine that whenever someone mentions the Powerhouse back in Cleveland, I instantly duck.

But where the one in Cleveland is a bit cheesy with its Howl at the Moon Saloon, Culture Club (*shudders*), Rock Bottom Brewery and The Improv, the Powerhouse in Chicago is elegant and formal.

The inside looks like this:

And my dinner of grilled swordfish with lobster ravioli looks just like this:

Executive Chef Jeff Mauro dealt us amazing dish after amazing dish, starting with the tartare of Hawaiian Ono, braised pork cheeks and an octopus salad, and finishing us off with rhubarb cheesecake and sweet potato doughnuts (which Claire couldn’t shut up about).

The Powerhouse is located so close to the huge Green Line Clinton stop that you’ll feel the building rumble every 10 minutes or less, which isn’t good or bad, just noticeable. It reminds you that even though it might be a little off the beaten path (read: not many tourists dine here), it’s still very accessible.

Powerhouse Restaurant and Bar
215 N Clinton
312.928.0800
info@PowerhouseRestaurant.com

CLAIRE WROTE:
So, I’ve been mostly vegetarian for the last month or 6 weeks or so and I’ve been feeling really good about it, physically and mentally. There have, however, been a couple of times in the last weeks in which I’ve strayed from a vegetable-friendly diet. One of those times was last week when Greg and I dined at Powerhouse in the West Loop. And man, did I deviate.

But here’s why: At the start of our meal, before we’d even really ordered actually, Chef Jeff Mauro came out to chat with us and tell us a little bit about himself and his vision for the menu at Powerhouse. He spoke of utilizing Chicago’s fantastic farmer’s markets and he talked about the dishes he felt really confident in on the menu, and he even had the humility to admit which ones he felt hadn’t quite found their place yet. He also talked about his dedication to food resourcefulness and to teaching his staff how to truly appreciate the produce that comes into his kitchen.

Chef Mauro looks a little like a young Edward Norton. He speaks quickly, as if he’s afraid that if he doesn’t say everything all at once, he may not get up the gumption to do it in two breaths. I liked him right away and I leaned forward in my seat, as he spoke, in rapt attention to the way he talked about his kitchen. For instance, he recounted the story of an entire pig that they brought in recently. I showed the staff how to use the entire animal, he said and he talked about the difference in seeing the animal in its full form, as opposed to fillets shrink-wrapped in plastic. His eyes glowed with respect and reverence. We even named it, he said. I had to ask. Hank, he replied. I smiled.

And I ordered it. Wild Boar Rack and Loin with Artisanal Rice Grits, Poached Farm Egg, Truffled Pecorino & Ancho Chile Sauce:


One (not all) of my issues with eating meat these days is the way in which its treated before it arrives on your plate. I just can’t stand to think about the inhumane ways in which animals are grown, kept and slaughtered, and I’d like to think that I can do my small part to keep from perpetuating this problem. Now, that may sound silly to you, but cultivating a respect and reverence for all life has become important to me.

And when I have strayed these past few weeks and eaten or cooked some form of meat, I’ve made an effort to truly think about the animal I’m preparing and ingesting. As Chef Mauro said, it’s such a different experience to just cut open a plastic package containing a bloodless chicken breast or a slab of bacon. It’s so easy not to think about the animal from which it came. It’s so easy to dismiss the life that was lived. But when Chef said that he’d even named the boar I was about to eat, I recognized a man after my own heart… or at least my palate.

And so with gusto, I ate the perfectly tender Hank with his delightfully runny poached egg and rich ancho chile sauce, and with each bite, I savored and gave thanks for the animal gracing my evening.

Lollapalooza Day 3 - We Heard that NIN was Pretty Sweet

Friday, August 8th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

So, and I hate to say that this happened, we didn’t make it to Day 3. My ankle blew up overnight (see Day 2 post), mainly because I walked around on it the day before instead of icing it and keeping it elevated and whispering encouragement to it.

I didn’t make the final decision to bail until my Sunday already seemed so full. In the early morning, we got a new kitten.

He’s a Russian Blue, like our other cat. And his name is Lincoln for the following reasons:

1. We live very close to the Lincoln Square neighborhood which includes Lincoln Avenue.
2. He freed the slaves that toiled in the sadness fields of my heart.

Claire, meanwhile, had let her summer cold catch up to her. And while she rested that early afternoon and watched the cats make small talk at the wet bar, Joe, Tarek and I drove to Schaumburg to Medieval Times.

I know that you’re supposed to be a part of a 10-year-old’s birthday party when you find yourself at Medieval Times, but the three of us are so insane about the movie “Cable Guy” that it was inevitable that one day we would all go to this chain restaurant where Jim Carrey and Matthew Broderick filmed a glorious 10-minute scene.

So, there we were, watching actors fight in the sandpit arena below us, us living out some ridiculous fantasy.

We ate with our hands, cheered for the Blue Knight, and laughed at ourselves for being so excited about being there.

Here’s a picture of a 63-year-old man being “knighted” by “the king” on “his birthday”:

During the performance/meal, though, my ankle started to throb. I bought the Lolla tix specifically to see The National and Nine Inch Nails, but I was certain that I’d be a mess over there that day, limping along without a crutch or a cool walking stick.

Joe and Tarek went, later telling me that NIN put on a spectacular light show and played a really good set. Damn. Claire and I ended up sitting on the couch with the air conditioner on high, paying a lot of attention to the new kitten and watched “Lost Boys.”

CLAIRE WROTE:

Day Three of Lollapalooza was, by far, my favorite day. We didn’t go.

Instead, I spent the most gloriously mundane Sunday at home. In the morning I made a frittata and watched Greg ice his ankle which had swollen up even more. Eventually I rustled up an ace bandage and wrapped him, good and tight.

Even though I didn’t want Greg to be in pain, I was secretly excited by his new club foot. I knew it meant that we probably wouldn’t go to Day Three of Lollapalooza, and even though I would be sorry to miss Iron and Wine and The National, I was much more enthused about a day at home.

In the late morning we got a new addition to the household: a young Russian Blue kitten that we named Lincoln. Getting a third cat was totally Greg’s idea and he was so fired up that he even put an ad on craigslist.org looking for the perfect one. Turns out he actually did a great job. One of our older cats, Reynold, has taken to Lincoln like a big brother, and the two of them can’t get enough of each other.

The rest of the day was spent amusingly watching Greg and his friends watch “Cable Guy” in preparation for their outing to Medieval Times. When they finally left, the house was blissfully quiet and peaceful. I nursed my summer cold (which had only been exacerbated by Lollapalooza) on the couch while I worked on our wedding photo album. I then read through a stack of magazines on the coffee table that I’d been meaning to read through, wrote a couple of of thank you notes and made a grocery list.

Perfectly mundane and boring. And so the opposite of hot, crazy Lollapalooza.

I don’t think that I’ll go back next year. In fact, I’m sure that I won’t. I’ll probably never attend another music festival unless there are special VIP circumstances involved. That said, I think it’s great for some people. I’m glad all those sweaty, college boys have a reason to go outside once a year. And I know that Greg has fun with his buddies, and I’ll fully support his decision if wants to go next year.

And I’m glad for the experience of it. I mean, it sounded really great — all those bands, one big, exciting weekend. I loved hearing Radiohead flood through the nighttime streets of Chicago. I’m glad I finally registered to vote in Chicago. I’m glad I now know that if I start to black out in line for tacos, my husband will make sure I’m okay. I loved tapping my flip-flops to Sharon Jones and I loved the tears that slipped down my cheeks listening to Wilco, huge against the night sky.

There are good things to be found in every experience. Some experiences are just a lot sweatier and more crowded than others.







Lollapalooza
Grant Park, Chicago
August 1-3





Medieval Times
2001 N Roselle Ave
Schaumburg, IL 60195
(888) WE-JOUST








































































































A Summer Cold is Not Enough to Keep Anyone From Experiencing Perennial

Friday, August 1st, 2008
GREG WROTE:

BOKA chef Guiseppe Tentori is the executive chef at the just-opened and much-hyped Perennial, and ever since we dined at BOKA in early June and had that amazing meal, I’ve been salivating to get to Perennial. Seriously, I have. Ask Claire. I’ve been wearing a bib for almost two straight months now in anticipation.

- Plus side of going everywhere with a bib on: I’m always given a seat on the train.

- Negative side of going everywhere with a bib on: After I’m sitting down, the other riders are always trying to shove whatever food they find on the floor into my mouth.

Claire and I waited at the small bar, sipping drinks that included fruit-infused vodkas and flower petals and that had names like “#14″ and “Why Not?”, and we watched the restaurant on the corner of Clark and Lincoln slowly fill toward capacity.

We were given a window booth - the wall-length window was open but the air conditioning blew straight down on us - and we munched on starters, including gulf shrimp risotto and gazpacho.

But before we began with the apps, the four of us at the table were given a single piece of bread each. A small plate of butter was passed around, and as I buttered my bread like I normally do, I saw that Claire and the two other women at the table had smeared their butter onto their plates next to their bread. I took a moment to look at my buttered piece of bread in embarrassment. When did this start? The buttering of plates instead of the buttering of slices? I really don’t think that’s a ship I want to sail on.

For dinner, I went with the black kingfish.


(That’s not me. Totally a Google image of some rascally fisherman in his Juicy Fruit tee with a king blackfish.)

Delicious. Crisp and moist and enough.

We also ordered a few side dishes, and the one that really stood out for me was the potato puree. Wow. I wanted to shrink down to the size of an ant and swim in it with my mouth open and motion over to all my ant buddies to jump in - “The potato’s fine!” - but then I would rethink this and pull out my ant gun and tell them all the step the fuck back because this puree is way too good to share.

Waaaaaay too good.

CLAIRE WROTE:

Last night I wasn’t feeling well. I have one of those summer colds that feels so wrong to have when it’s so nice outside. It’s one of those colds that would normally keep you home for the evening, on the couch surfing through reality television, while simultaneously flipping through an old US Weekly. But instead, last night found me in a window seat at Perennial. Greg and I had plans to dine there and there was no way I was backing out, cold or no cold.

Perennial is the new restaurant by Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm, the guys behind BOKA and Landmark. Giuseppe Tentori, the chef at BOKA, who was recently named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs, oversees the menu at Perennial but leaves the dirty work to Ryan Poli (formerly of Butter).

Perennial is located in one of my favorite spots in Chicago — right on the intersection where Lincoln Avenue and Clark Street intersect. The restaurant is housed in the yet-to-open Park View Hotel and is just across the street from Lincoln Park where the Green City Farmer’s Market is held every Saturday and Wednesday (Alice Waters just named Green City one of the top 10 best farmers markets in the country). We had a booth in the window with fantastic views shooting straight up both Lincoln and Clark, the kind of views that remind you that you are sitting in a sexy new restaurant on a warm summer evening in one of the greatest cities in the world.

The four of us who were dining started off with a slew of appetizers including pillowy beet gnocchi with goat cheese, a smoky and refreshing gazpacho, creamy risotto with gulf shrimp and the already renowned raw surf and turf (big eye tuna and Angus Strip loin). Since I wasn’t feel well, I opted for a vegetarian entree hoping that it wouldn’t weigh me down too much and my choice didn’t disappoint. House-made agnolotti with a creamy asparagus-based sauce was perfectly soothing and delicately rich. Sides of watermelon and tomato salad, truffled mac and cheese, potato puree, a green bean salad and ratatouille were equally blissful — I literally couldn’t decide which to stop eating first.

And one of the best parts of the whole evening is that throughout dinner, while I sat next to Greg, I was facing A New Leaf, the event space where we were planning to get married next April but which swiftly became too complicated and costly. It was a surreal and validating experience to look across at that place and know that all the fretting and agonizing is over, and that the wonderfully funny and sweet man beside me is already my husband.






Perrenial
1800 N Lincoln Ave
312.981.7071

They Might Not Have Tomatoes, Music, Timely Service, or a Nice Outdoor Eating Area, But Corosh’s Food Keeps Us From Flipping Over the Table

Monday, July 14th, 2008
GREG WROTE:
Our main criteria for the night was that it had outdoor seating, and the other was that it was in Wicker Park/Ukrainian Village. After gathering much advice from friends Yelp, I suggested that we try Corosh.

It’s always a matter of seconds when you arrive at an almost empty restaurant you’ve made (and changed) reservations for before someone in your party says “I guess we didn’t need reservations.”

That was me.

It always is.

Corosh’s back patio ended up being a disappointment: The slab tables were all lined up together like one long picnic table, the lighting appeared undesirable, and it just didn’t feel like a place I wanted to eat a meal at.

The decor on the inside didn’t bowl me over either, and I asked everyone if they wanted to go somewhere else at least three times. But I relaxed, we grabbed a table, Claire and I ordered mojitos, and 15 minutes later the drinks arrived. (Of course, I mumbled that place was practically empty and that our drinks had no business being that late when I saw all the servers just hanging around, but it set the pace for the rest of the evening quite well.)

We settled on a couple appetizers: Insalata Caprese and the brushchetta. When we tried to order them, however, we were informed that Corosh was out of fresh tomatoes.

Groan.

An Italian-slash-Mediterranean joint that doesn’t have tomatoes? An Italian-slash-Mediterranean joint that has a plethora of servers just hanging out next to the bar and a grocery store pretty close in the vicinity, doesn’t have tomatoes? Really?

That also fucked with my entree selection. “I’m going to need some more time.” Finally, I decided on the Linguini Con Gamberi E Broccoli (linguini noodles, broccoli, shrimp), and when my beard was full for the first time in my life, it appeared.

Photobucket

Everyone’s dinner pretty much ended up being a hit even though the service was the pits. Now, I’m sure every night at Corosh is different in respect to the speed of the service due to a multitude of possible circumstances that can happen out of the eye of the customer, but that night it was laughable.

I’ve waited tables before. Sometimes a cook or two didn’t show up or there’s a huge party taking up the majority of my time in the other room. Sometimes the bartender ignored me. Sometimes I ignored the customers.

We were in a reasonable enough mood to stay on for the final course. For dessert, we asked for the Tiramisu. For an answer, they said they were all out.

Groan.




CLAIRE WROTE:
Greg and I recently went to Corosh for dinner. It was a rare night in which Greg chose our dining location and I was excited to see where we would end up. It turned out to be Corosh in the Ukrainian Village.

Greg had made a reservation for our party of four — a seemingly important necessity at 8pm on a Thursday night in Chicago — but which turned out to be completely unnecessary. The place, with its high ceilings and lengthy bar, was fairly empty. We’d heard the patio was nice but upon inspection looked depressing with its concrete and empty picnic tables. It was unseasonably cold out anyway so we chose to eat inside.

I had no idea what to expect with this place — a rare thing these days when I go out — and I originally even thought the place might be Middle Eastern. The menu, however, dictated a very conventional Italian theme: insalata, antipasti, pasta, secondi… you get the picture. I hadn’t been out for Italian food in quite a while — I usually deem it too fattening and also, I enjoy making my own pasta dishes at home so much that it seems like too much of a luxury to order it somewhere.

In any case, the four of us settled in to our rustic little table in the center of the restaurant and took in our surroundings. I again noted the high ceilings, the random art on the walls, the long, narrow room, the empty tables. There was no music playing and the room felt awkwardly quiet. I feel like there was a moment, just before our waiter arrived, when we all wondered if perhaps this was the wrong choice and that maybe we should leave while we still had time. But something shifted and I think we all decided not to care and to just see where the night took us.

Our waiter approached and we ordered a round of cocktails — mojitos for me and Greg. While we waited for our drinks we perused the menu, picking out a caprese salad, or maybe it was the bruschetta, from the list. I mentally settled on Linguini Carbonara for my main dish (I had just run 7 miles that afternoon and felt that I could get away with eating a little heavy cream). I briefly considered the Capellini di Pomodoro and the Fusili Corosh with sausage, peppers, escarole and cannellini beans.

I think it was then that I realized how long our drinks were taking. Greg was getting agitated and one of our guest’s drinks had already arrived, making it even more apparent that ours had not. When they finally did show up, after an inordinate length of time for such an empty restaurant, they were surprisingly good. And thus arrived the true theme of the evening: late or non-existent, but surprisingly good.

Upon ordering our antipasti we were informed that there were no tomatoes. Not because of a salmonella scare… just because. After some grumbling (on Greg’s behalf) we rearranged our wants and ordered calamari and grilled portobellos… which turned out to be surprisingly good. Now, I keep saying “surprisingly good” because my expectations for this place diminished by the minute. The muted ambiance, lack of attentive service and complete unavailability of dishes continued to persuade me to give up on Corosh.

But with each dish that arrived, I was reminded why I could not. When my enormous plate of Linguini Carbonara was finally placed in front of me, after too long a time waiting for the bottle of wine we ordered, I was once again feeling discontent (by this time I had actually inquired as to whether they had any music they could play but it seems the stereo wasn’t working properly because it only played for a moment before shutting off again). However, one bite of my pasta had me settling in to my chair, not caring at all if there was music in the air.




Corosh
1072 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago
773.235.0600

You Can’t Get More American (Or Indigestion) Than Having a Hot Dog on the Fourth

Thursday, July 10th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

My uncle and cousin were in town for the 4th of July weekend from San Francisco and they wanted to really experience Chicago. And instead of cramming themselves onto a Loop train during rush hour or sitting in traffic on Diversey during any time of day, they wanted to try an authentic Chicago hot dog.

If you aren’t aware, a Chicago dog includes these seven ingredients: a dill pickle slice, celery salt, tomatoes, onions, mustard, sport peppers and relish.

We flipped through the current Time Out Chicago, asked neighbors for advice, ground our teeth and pointed fingers at each other’s chests, and finally ended up at U Lucky Dawg (formerly known as Fluky’s):

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I hadn’t eaten a hot dog in over a year - since my one and only Cubs game - and when we got inside we were all overwhelmed with menu. My uncle and I ordered the Chicago-style while my cousin got a cheese dog and Claire, for Lord knows what reason, got a chili cheese dog. We took the trays outside to the front patio.

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We consumed.

Claire’s reaction: She couldn’t believe she just ate that chili cheese dog.

My cousin’s reaction: She never really tasted the cheese.

My uncle’s reaction: He could eat another one of those.

My reaction: I could eat another one of those.

I headed back inside to order three more Chicago style dogs, one for the girls to split, and we consumed some more.

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Might I advise that if you haven’t eaten a hot dog in over a year and then down two loaded ones in under ten minutes, that you should beat yourself up immediately. Physically and mentally. Get it over with.

We headed back to the apartment with all of our foreheads against the car windows, blaming each other for the second round, and when we got home nobody spoke to each other for hours. By the time it was ready to leave for the fireworks, our stomachs had somewhat settled, but it was the hot dogs that we oohed and aahed and ughed over on the blanket that night.




CLAIRE WROTE:

So, I was dragged (somewhat reluctantly) to the U Lucky Dawg hot dog stand on the 4th of July with Greg, his Uncle Ron and cousin Mandy.

I say “dragged” because, as American as it might be, getting hot dogs on the 4th of July isn’t my idea of perfection. I would have much preferred to take a picnic basket to the lake to watch fireworks. (We did go to the lake that night to watch fireworks, but by then all we had with us was some bottles of water, a king-sized bag of almond M&Ms and several moderate cases of indigestion.)

What I would have liked to take with us in a picnic basket had we not gone to U Lucky Dawg:

* A wedge of Humbolt Fog
* Crackers
* Olives
* Possibly some aged salami
* Marcona almonds in olive oil & sea salt
* Loaf of crusty French bread
* Strawberries
* Chocolate
* A bottle or two of Rosé

In place of the above, I sat outside at a picnic table on a fairly noisy stretch of Western and ate a charred chili-cheese hot dog.

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Now, I may sound snobby with my bourgeois picnic basket up there, but I ate that hot dog as though I’d been waiting for it all day. I hadn’t had a hot dog in a long time, since I only have one maybe every couple of years, and I can’t actually remember the last time I had one before this chili cheese dog. But suddenly there we were in line in front of the counter, all of us gazing up at the menu board, and Greg and Ron were set on ordering the famous Chicago-style dog, which I’m sure Greg will explain the components of in his post. I had already decided against ordering it, and was trying to decide on what exactly I would order, when I flashed on a childhood memory.

When I was a kid growing up in Sandy Springs, a suburb of Atlanta, my Dad used to take me to a hot dog place called G.D. Ritzy’s, which has since all but disappeared (although a comeback is rumored), and we always ordered the chili-cheese dog with shoestring fries and chocolate milkshakes. And it was like this thing that my Dad and I did together — one of those things that becomes forever encompassed by a little bubble of nostalgia, making it so that every time you are ever forced to order a hot dog you always go for the chili-cheese, no matter that you are 30 years old and no longer eat hot dogs and it’s the 4th of July and you just hosted a vegetarian yoga brunch on your deck.

And so I ate the chili-cheese hot dog and it was just okay, all dripping with that processed nacho cheese sauce and swimming in some kind of bland chili. In fact, I ate it so fast that Greg was still reveling in his Chicago-style dog when I was done, so I asked for a bite and immediately realized that I’d fallen into a terrible nacho cheese-flavored trap of nostalgia and should’ve just listened to my fiance when he suggested I get the Chicago-style. And then I think it was Ron who suggested we order another round. Seven minutes later found me still sitting on a picnic bench on a noisy stretch of Western on the 4th of July now splitting a Chicago-style hot dog with Mandy, my stomach already beginning to churn, as it would continue to do so for the next eight or so hours.

All in all, I’m glad we went, if even just for the memory of going to G.D. Ritzy’s with my Dad (and perhaps for the reminder that I shouldn’t eat hot dogs for another few years). Next year we’re doing the 4th bourgeois-picnic-style, and if anyone insists on hot dogs I’ll make some pigs-n-blankets with a nice grainy mustard.




U Lucky Dawg
6821 N Western Ave, Chicago
773.274.3652

Stop Us If We’ve Been Here Before: Brioso Vs Jack Rabbit

Wednesday, June 25th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

Claire and I walked north on Lincoln Avenue (from Ashland) for the first time last October.
We window shopped, tasted wines, held hands, break danced (sans cardboard or music), dodged traffic and read menus on restaurant fronts. When we got to Wilson, Claire spotted a Mexican place on the corner with a menu that she just loved. It was called Brioso and it had a goat cheese enchilada dish listed that Claire salivated over.

We were pretty broke at the time, so I promised to take her there for some sort of celebration. Like when she got her job, or I got a raise, or one of us got something big published, or one of my Cleveland professional sports teams didn’t embarrass me on national television.

Claire landed her job soon after that walk. We sat down in a front table of Brioso and ordered a couple margaritas. She got her goat cheese enchiladas, I got something I can’t remember, and we left being completely underwhelmed by the place, the food, the drinks, the whole thing. We laughed on our walk home that night because we had built it up so much in our heads.

Now we live practically in Lincoln Square, and now Brioso is another Mexican joint called Jack Rabbit. “Good,” we both said when we saw the awning. “Fucking Brioso.”

We popped in Jack Rabbit in late April looking for a drink, but when we got inside we realized that the inside hadn’t changed a bit. The bar that we sat down at was still the tiny tiled thing that sat only four, and the menu looked to be EXACTLY the same: same layout, font, dishes, they even had a “Brioso” margarita. Annoyed, we went across the street to Fiddlehead Cafe (which we love).

But after reading a Time Out Chicago review on Jack Rabbit, and after seeing that they have outdoor seating, and after Claire and I couldn’t decide where to eat this week, we gave the place a shot.

After declining an outdoor table because the only one open was mere inches away on both sides from other tables, Claire and I ended up sitting at the exact same table we did when it was called Brioso. We ordered a couple of Brioso margaritas and the Three Handcrafted Salsas to start.

There was a couple sitting at the next table over with their dinners in front of them, and when the animated young woman finally took a break from talking her dude’s ear off, we asked what they had there: She was about to start on the Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast (with spicy mac n’ cheese) and I never found out what he ordered because the woman started gabbing away about how they love it here, how they’ve been to Jack Rabbit four times now, how they never tried it when it was Brioso.

“Well,” I said to Claire. “Maybe they fixed this shit up.”

But then our appetizer and drinks showed up. The margaritas ($7.50) were okay, but too similar. The chips were tasty, but the three salsas were flat and annoying to dip into; they were served in ramekins whose openings were too small for the chips. Getting to the bean salsa was a chore and soon I found myself dumping them out onto the chips.

When our server came back to get our dinner order, I had to ask him about the menu and its shocking similarity to Brioso’s. He explained that it was the same owners who wanted to “revamp” the place. That’s understandable. After a little more prodding, he told us that they kept the same menu and the same chefs, too. So all they did was change the name?

That’s kind of like filling out a test, handing it to the teacher, and once she’s done marking it up you ask for a blank copy so that you can immediately take it again. You don’t ask to go home so that you can study for a week to relearn the material, you just take the same test back to your desk and fill it out with the exact same answers. The only difference is you write down a different name at the top, trying to fool her.

And it showed. Claire’s free-range chicken fajitas ($11.95) were mediocre, but its accompanying dish of cheese, lettuce and salsa looked as unfrozen and drab as something out of Chi-Chi’s. I ordered the special, the Chile Relleno.

It was also… fine. And for some reason it came with three tortillas. I cleaned my plate.

Jack Rabbit, by all accounts, is still Brioso. We weren’t fooled, Mr. Owner Of Both Places Which Is The Really Same Place Let’s Be Honest Here. So if you are like us and didn’t enjoy Brioso, don’t waste your time at Jack Rabbit.




CLAIRE WROTE:

On Tuesday night Greg and I went to Jack Rabbit in Lincoln Square. I really want to like this restaurant. I’ve wanted to like it ever since I first walked by its first incarnation, close to eight months ago, when it was called Brioso and billed itself as “Modern Mexican.”

The restaurant I’m referring to, now called Jack Rabbit and billed as a “Southwest Grill,” is located on a bustling little corner in Lincoln Square. Greg and I first happened upon this place last fall on a stroll through the Square, back when neither of us even lived in the neighborhood. I remember spotting its storefront from across the street and pulling Greg over by the arm to check it out with me. Brioso, Modern Mexican. I scanned the menu noting the goat cheese enchiladas and the green chile cheeseburger. YUM, right? Greg shrugged.

I love Mexican food. That and Indian food are my two favorite cuisines. And I’m always interested to see a modern version of them (Marigold is a great example of this). So last fall, after finally finding a job 3 torturous months after moving to Chicago, when Greg asked me where I wanted to celebrate, I said Brioso! We were both excited, dreaming of sparkly, tart margaritas and creamy goat cheese enchiladas, green chiles and homemade salsas. Even Greg, who bills himself as someone who doesn’t get excited about food, was excited.

So, last fall, for my celebratory dinner Greg and I found ourselves at a corner window table at Brioso. And I can’t help but just say it now: What a let down. I haven’t been this disappointed in a restaurant in a long time. The evening began well but quickly gained downhill momentum with the arrival of each dish. The margaritas, although flavorful, had no discernible alcohol in them. The chips were tasty but the heavier sort that require the balance of a bright salsa — unfortunately, the salsas before us were bland and boring. An ahi tuna appetizer could have been fresher and also failed to balance the heavy chips it was served with. And my beloved goat cheese enchiladas that I had dreamed about ever since hearing the words, “We’d like to offer you the position,” were dry and tasteless things swimming in an equally bland red sauce that pooled into a flavorless muck against the rice.

I remember putting down my fork with a sigh. Isn’t it just the worst to be that disappointed by a meal?

I’m one of the nicest critics you’ll come across. Having been raised by a chef mother who ran her own restaurant when I was a kid, I always give the restaurant the benefit of the doubt. I’ve got a decade’s worth of time spent working behind the scenes of the restaurant business and I know first hand how hard it can be to plate a good serving of food. But the flipside is that I also know an uninspired dish when I taste one. And the dinner we shared at Brioso last fall was exactly that: uninspired.

So, earlier this spring, when on a stroll through our new neighborhood of Lincoln Square, we both noticed a new sign over the spot where Brioso had been, we were intrigued. Jack Rabbit, huh? Southwest Grill? We crossed the street to check out the menu. I scanned its contents and noted the goat cheese enchiladas and the green chile cheeseburger. What?! Startlingly similar menu, vaguely different sign. We peered into the restaurant itself. It looked the same. I looked at the menu again. The “Brioso” margarita was even still there on the left-hand side of the menu. Weird. Troubling. Slightly intriguing. Kind of enraging.

I felt even more incensed when I read the review in Time Out Chicago that week, which deemed Jack Rabbit a welcome replacement to its so-so predecessor Brioso. Hmmm…could it be true? For months I didn’t really care that much and Greg and I stayed on our side of the street. But last night after a long discussion about where to get married (destination wedding in Mexico?!) and where to eat dinner, we decided to finally check out Jack Rabbit. I was in a bad mood and looking forward to having something to bitch about. Not the most objective attitude for trying out a new restaurant but what’s a girl to do?

I’ll cut right to it. It wasn’t bad. Greg and I sat in the same spot and we both ordered the Brioso margarita which had adopted a much pulpier mix but tasted less tart and more sweet than I generally like. We started with chips and three “hand-crafted” salsas — all of them still quite bland and still accompanied by their heavier tortilla counterpart. As we munch, I poured over the menu.

Man, it’s a good menu. I still really wanted to like this place. Standout items that made my mouth water included an appetizer of a roasted beet salad with goat cheese, fajitas with marinated free-range chicken breast, again with the green chile cheeseburger, a Monterey jack and parmesan encrusted ribeye served with buttermilk mashed potatoes and zucchini, and lastly, a pan roasted chicken breast with green beans and spicy mac and cheese. YUM, right?

I ordered the free-range chicken fajitas and Greg ordered off the specials menu — a chile relleno with wild mushrooms. While we waited I noticed the woman next to me had what appeared to be the chicken breast with mac & cheese. When I queried her about it she reported that it was delicious and that she and her dining partner had been to Jack Rabbit several times, much to their enjoyment. We then asked the waiter about the changes done to the restaurant, and in a bored and unfriendly way, he repeated more than once that he wasn’t there when it was Brioso and all he could tell us was that the owners had revamped the menu.

Greg and I both ate our entrees as we sucked down a second round of margaritas. My chicken fajitas were tender and flavorful but were accompanied by a tiny little plate featuring some wilting lettuce, my favorite bland salsa and a little cup of dryly shredded cheese. I requested some guacamole which ended up being the best part of it all, and I tried a bite of Greg’s rellenos which tasted okay but not amazing. We both cleaned our plates despite not loving our dishes.

The bottom line is that I don’t think I’d go back. For a two-person dinner that averages around $75, I’d much rather go somewhere else. I’m a person who believes that anyone can change…but in the case of Brioso/Jack Rabbit, not so much.




Jack Rabbit
4603 N Lincoln Ave, Chicago
773.989.9000

Mayfest in Lincoln Square Provides The Opportunity to Drink German Beer and Play those Awful Festival Games

Monday, June 2nd, 2008
GREG WROTE:

You know it’s summer in Chicago when the street festivals start.

While Do-Division Street Fest brought people to Division Street this weekend with big-name alt bands like Ted Leo and Lucero, the German-themed Mayfest brought people to Lincoln Square for a few days with high-calorie intakes like bratwurst and beer.

Claire and I walked to Mayfest as kind of a last minute thing. And at two in the afternoon, we saw signs of the festival before we saw the festival itself: drunks on curbs yelling at cars turning right on red, inflatable and oversized baseball bats, and kegs being rolled off the back of trucks.

It was packed.

Packed full of sunglasses and sun dresses. Riddled with Americans in lederhosen. Peppered with German mustaches. Interrupted by awful, stereotypical festival games.

Claire and I laughed and gladly bought tickets for a couple of Hofbrauhaus beers and brats, and we consumed them while a German band played peppy music that no one was drunk enough to dance to yet.

We meandered around, holding hands in a single-file line in order to get from one place to the other. Eventually we stumbled upon the gaming area where Claire listened to me grumble about what a waste of money they all were. There was the ol’ basketball-rim-that’s-too-small:

There was the one where you shoot water at a target that moves your avatar across the back wall:

And there was that one game where you throw darts at a wall of balloons (3 darts for $5):

That game!

I think what irked me the most about that particular game is that the prizes - those lacquered and plastic-backed magazine covers, posters and bikini pictures - are exactly the same prizes in 2008 as they were in 1988. Yes, all those shitty stuffed animals can still be won at the other games, but who the hell wants a lacquered and miniature “Scarface” poster?

Oh. You do.

I handed an aproned man two bucks and we played the water shooting one. Neither of us won. We still had some tickets left, so I bought us a couple more beers in the main tent.

A little drunk, I persuaded Claire to go back to the games with me…

And now, against my better and even my worse judgment, you will witness the embarrassing progression of what happens when I drink in the afternoon, have a stray dollar in my pocket, and see a (new to me) game where you shoot corks out of a handgun at empty pop cans.

** Shaking head **

When I was done kicking ass, though, I turned to see a little boy holding onto his father’s hand in line right behind me. We locked eyes - me drunk and high on corked adrenaline, him scared of my jumpy eyebrows - and I offered him my bounty. His dad smiled, but the little boy said, “No, I want to win my own.” I spat out that I liked that kind of attitude, and moved to the side.

I looked at the shitty little stuffed animals in my hand, realized I’m just the kind of guy that has kept these festival games alive for decades, and then I looked at a nearby trashcan. Claire mentioned that my infant niece had a birthday next month and I could give them to her.

“Yeah,” I said, hardly contemplative. “Or I’ll take them home and just throw them to the cats.”

CLAIRE WROTE:

Saturday Greg and I went to Mayfest in Lincoln Square.

I’ve been living in Chicago for 9 months now. My first month here, aside from unpacking and job hunting, was spent letting the slowly creeping realization that I’d officially moved to the Midwest sink in. Truthfully it just didn’t really occur to me before moving here — that I was moving not just to Chicago, but to the Midwest.

I grew up in Atlanta which, if you’re not from the South, is officially the South. Just as if you’re not from the Midwest, Chicago definitely feels as though it is of the essence. After Atlanta I moved to New York City and then after that to Los Angeles — both of those cities quite regional as well. Los Angeles is as West Coast as New York City is East Coast.

And Saturday, at Mayfest, I realized quite how Midwest Chicago is. Nothing written here by me about the Midwest or Chicago is intended as criticism, merely as observation from someone who has lived in numerous big cities. People like to ask me which city I’ve liked the best and I always answer as I will right now: they’re all different and not really worth comparing. They are each their own city unto themselves.

Why the long introduction, you may be wondering to yourself? Is it because Greg always uses so many pictures in his posts causing me to expound in text? Perhaps. But really I suppose it’s just to get you ready for my assessment of what Midwesterners seem to like to do more than most things: eat bratwurst and drink beer during the day.

Ouch. That sounded a little harsh. I didn’t quite mean it that way.

Let’s move on.

Three things I’ve been exposed to more than anything else in this, The Windy City.

1. The Cubs. Don’t drive on Clark Street during Cubs season, I’ve learned. I tend to try to go somewhere using Clark only when there is a Cubs game, and each time I get stuck for half hours watching Cubs fans criss-cross said street in their sporty jerseys with rosy cheeks and hot dog-ready fists.

2. Book Clubs. I’d never been invited to a book club until I moved to Chicago. I’ve since been invited to 5 and have attended 3. Each time I tended to drink too much and talk too much and feel like that “Greg Boose’s weird girlfriend who just moved here from LA” too much.

3. Street Festivals. I’m not kidding: there is a street festival EVERY weekend during the summer months in Chicago.

Which brings us to Saturday. The Mayfest street festival that Greg and I attended right in our very own neighborhood, Lincoln Square. Lincoln Square is an old German neighborhood replete with a long standing German bakery and the occasional cantankerous German old-timer who claims that it’s nothing compared to what it all used to be.

Oh, and replete with the annual two-day drunken sausage/beer festival called Mayfest.

This probably sounds like I didn’t enjoy myself, but actually I did. Greg and I wandered right into the heart of it all, ordering up some brat sandwiches and grabbing plastic steins of Hofbrauhaus beer which we took into the tent so that we might better hear the German band in their lederhosen up on the stage. I kept getting flashes of that scene in “National Lampoon’s European Vacation” when they’re in Germany and Rusty makes out with that hot, boobilicious German girl, and then I remembered that the Griswold family totally lived in the Midwest and suddenly it all made sense.

There were guys everywhere wearing funny little German hats and double-fisting steins and there were moms with strollers and old cantankerous Germans who’ve probably lived in the neighborhood for half a century. There were terrible street festival games which we totally played and won and lost.

There was incredible people watching no matter where you turned your head, and by the time we decided to leave I was perfectly tipsy from my two beers. And in my Hofbrauhaus daze the Midwest seemed like a good place to have landed. A solid place where people like to watch sports and read books and drink beer in the middle of the day just to celebrate a long lost heritage.





























(Greg included too many pictures. Again.)






























Mayfest Chicago
Lincoln Square
Last weekend in May
Free!